I had predicted the Fashion Collections fro Spring/Summer 2012 would be in large part colorfully glum due to the somber mood that has cloaked our country courtesy of its weak economy.
Well, let me tell you that this is one time that I am happy I was wrong.
Sure, the dull neutrals still abound and the urban nomads have not retreated (thanks to design houses like Rag & Bone and Nicholas K), but spring is bursting forth with all sorts of colors and patterns that will surely help to keep hope alive.
Pops of orange and sunny yellow are all over the place — from the pretty party dresses at Jenny Packham especially a sheer green flower-petal looking cocktail dress to the statement gowns at Carolina Herrera, the body-conscious lemon silk charmeuse skirt at Christian Siriano and grass green party dress featuring bouquets of flowers on the bodice and hip at Badgley Mischka.
In keeping with the burst of color there also is an embrace of femininity that is refreshing. In part along the nostalgic lines of the madly popular Mad Men that showcases women wearing feminine vintage-inspired attire, designers are following suit. Knee-length skirts and white collars at Tory Burch, pretty dresses at Cynthia Rowley, Karen Walker and Tracy Reese, high-waisted, full-leg trousers at Zang Toi , flirty fitted dresses — best in lemon yellow — at Rodarte, and bow blouses with proper suits at Oscar de la Renta all celebrate a strong, beautiful woman.
Harkening backwards is hardly the only way that designers have women looking, though. A futuristic edge is apparent with many designers, especially with architectural cuts on shoulders and hems. Narciso Rodriquez mastered the future while keeping the looks feminine and sexy.
He used many of the season’s favorite elements: sheer, asymmetrical, black and white, and colorful in a collection that claimed the boldness and femininity that can be embodied in one woman.
On the more delicate side, there is a lot of handwork being shown at the Collections. Beautiful hand-knitted dresses at Degen, a combination of crochet, knit and lace at Oscar de la Renta who featured one lime green flirty knit dress that was a knockout.
SLIDESHOW: A splash of color at Fashion Week
Ethnic prints remain strong. Zang Toi conjured up Africa and Asia in his strong collection. Donna Karan invoked the earthiness of Haitian artist Phillippe Dodar in a collection that featured bold African-inspired prints. Michael Angel turned a pleated skirt into an Afro-fusion experience.
Black and white is everywhere: J. Mendel’s tuxedos, Cynthia Rowley’s graphic dresses along with a printed sequin jacket over a bold floral print, Donna Karan’s Afro-Haitian dresses, Jason’s Wu’s sleeveless sheer shirtdress, Rachel Roy’s Asian-inspired printed dress with loose-fitting topper, Alexander Wang’s short-sleeve white shirt buttoned to the collar with black cropped pants featuring mesh pockets, and Helmut Lang’s edgy futuristic asymmetrical dresses and bra tops with graphic skirts.
And that’s not all, folks. Shows end on the 15th, but there are some highlights awaiting us on the 16th. Stay tuned.
