From Harlem to Heraklion: A soulful sojourn to Crete
Author, critic and avid traveler Miles Marshall Lewis discovers food, wine and fun on Crete, Greece's largest isle and hidden gem.
A solid travel story about Greece should start something like: “A reflected full moon shimmers off the Gulf of Chania as we sip shots of raki with honey on the waterfront of Apostolis restaurant,” or “The shapely DJ at DNA nightclub spins Rick Ross’ ‘Santorini Greece’ into DJ Khaled’s ‘Greece,’ Drake rhyming about speedboats as the universal language of gyrating hips expresses itself loud and clearly…”
If the musical references don’t intrigue you, Greece’s special connections to many Black travelers bear some mention. Since the founding of the Alpha Phi Alpha fraternity at Cornell University, members of Black Greek Letter Organizations (BGLOs) have proudly sported symbols like ΔΣΘ and ΩΨΦ for more than a century. More recently, consider that Black folks have singlehandedly made the Greek Islands destination-worthy hotspots since the dawning of the Instagram era, turning “flying dress” photoshoots in Mykonos and Santorini into an entire industry.
With those two touristy isles feeling a little overexposed, I joined a group of fellow travel writers to spend over a week on the nearby island of Crete to discover its food, wine and resort life.
Now’s the time to cue the intro:
A brisk summer wind whips by as we speedboat through the crystalline blue waters of Aradena Gorge, whizzing toward the beachside Taverna Dialeskari under beaming Mediterranean sun rays…
Coming into Crete via either of its two international airports, a 50-minute flight from the nearby Greek capital of Athens makes the most sense. When creating a Crete itinerary, carving out a night (or two) in Athens adds overall value to this European jaunt. The Dolli hotel in downtown sets the mood nicely, with its rooftop infinity pool view of the Acropolis and plush bedrooms ranging from luxe to deluxe. (For an overnight stay on a more frugal budget, the centrally located Titania Hotel serves quite nicely, too.)
A 24-hour layover in Athens means a trip to the ancient Acropolis, easily the most famous tourist attraction in the country. Lines are reasonable, about 20 minutes at a quick clip, and the winding cobblestone path (wear sneakers) leading to the rocky outcrop above the city results in a great payoff: a 360° view of nearly all of Greece stretches out in every direction. For all the fascinating info about the Parthenon temple, the Theater of Dionysus, and all the other must-see monuments’ significance to modern civilization, a trip to the nearby archeological Acropolis Museum is well worth a few hours of time.
Then, it’s a speedy hour’s flight from Eleftherios Venizelos — or Athens International Airport — to the paradise island of Crete!
Crete is the largest and most populous of the possible 6,000 Greek islands, 227 of which are inhabited. Mykonos, by comparison, is almost 100 times smaller — which is still 10% bigger than Santorini (the most favored tourist spot of all the Greek isles). We arrived at the island’s primary airport in the north shore capital of Heraklion and made a straight shot for espresso martinis and hors d’oeuvres at the modest seaside Marina Café. If you stop by, expect a lot of chic charcuterie boards full of feta cheese, cherry tomatoes and sesame sticks, but also traditional spanakopita (flaky pies full of sautéed spinach and feta cheese, worth every bite).
One of the absolute best meals you’ll enjoy in Crete will be on Agreco Farms’s estate, on the north coast of Rethymno. Located on a bucolic hill amidst extremely photo-friendly vineyards and olive trees, Agreco Taverna uses centuries-old organic farming practices for its farm-to-table experience.
Serving a literally decadent menu of rice-stuffed vegetables, succulent oven-baked lamb and fresh farmhouse salad with locally produced oregano and their own branded olive oil, Agreco Farms promises to blow away any certified foodie at the table. Be sure to order extras of kalitsounia, the honey-drizzled appetizer of sweet cheese pastries. A camera-ready locale (especially around sunset), the estate often hosts weddings and anniversary celebrations, selling its own thyme honey, organic herbs, olive paté (“Crete’s caviar”) and more in the gift shop.
It’s hard to rival Agreco Taverna, which Vanity Fair UK named the best organic restaurant in the world. And yet, the Cretan mountain retreat of Milia boasts its own one-of-a-kind culinary experience. After navigating a serpentine hill that recalls the twists and turns of Caribbean mountain roads in Jamaica or Martinique, the western Crete hideaway of Milia reveals itself.
The Cretan countryside. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Plakias Beach (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Grecotel LUXME White Palace. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Nautilux Hotel. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The coastline of the Cretam village of Loutro. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Agreco Taverna (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The hilltops of Crete. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Holy Trinity (Agia Triada) Tzagaroli Monastery. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The interior of Agia Triada Monastery (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Olive oil at the Anoskeli olive mill and winery. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
Anoskeli olive mill and winery’s varietals. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The vineyards at Anoskeli olive mill and winery. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The entrance gate to the Rethymnon old town. (Photo: Miles Marshall Lewis)
The author, enjoying a Cretan sunset. (Photo: Courtesy of Miles Marshall Lewis)
A wellness eco-village of rustic, cabin-like houses provides the ultimate getaway to recharge your battery, topped off by the award-winning Milia restaurant, guided by chef Vasilis Makrakis. The place is like a spa, only the treatment is deep immersion in nature. The countryside surroundings make the food go down differently — and only fresh ingredients factor into their delectable ratatouille, moussaka, beef short ribs, chicken, pork and goat. Sourcing from henhouse-picked eggs and surrounding mountain herbs, Milia’s farm-to-table menu is a winner.
Not every drool-worthy restaurant in Crete requires winding pathways through the hills. Right in the heart of Rethymno, in a renovated 16th-century Venetian-style villa, lies Avli. Founded by Katerina Xekalou in the late ’80s, Avli’s decorative ferns, geraniums and exposed stone set up an amazing ambiance to enjoy some traditional dishes. The courtyard setup makes for a perfect date night (Avli also rents ten surrounding suites for a luxe vacay) or hours-long brunch to talk over your amazing time in Crete. Greece spares no shortage of cheese pastries, but Avli’s kalitsounia can’t be missed. Whether paired with grilled fish, roasted lamb, ravioli or something else, the top-tier wine selection has to be sampled as well; bottles are served from local Cretan wineries like Menexes, Zoumberakis and Zidianakis.
Speaking of, wine connoisseurs will be all grins and smiling eyes at the tastings on offer in Crete. The Anoskeli olive mill and winery (named for a small village near Chania) sets up a tasting room for anyone reserving in advance to sample favorites. Try blended varietals like the Ano Playa Rosé or single variety wines like their Anoferia Syrah. Likewise, the Kourkoulou winery accepts booking visits for wine tours of award-winning selections from their own local vineyard: try their fruity Vidiano or the Mikro-Mikraki rosé. Finally, in the cellar of the 17th century Agia Triada monastery (yes, a monastery), past dozens of Greek-lettered wine barrels and a gift shop lies another trove of flavorsome wines. Savor the atmosphere and sample my favorite: their deep purple merlot with a blackcurrant-marmalade aftertaste.
Other honorable mentions for great food and wine that won’t break the bank you’ve already broken to get to Crete include the 7 Thalasses seafood restaurant in Heraklion, the family-owned Taverna Leventogiannis and the super down-home Poliou House.
Eventually, it will be time for the beach, and maybe some culture. Hitting Plakias Beach on the south coast as often as possible will satisfy all your sunning and funning. If you’re staying at a luxury beach resort like Nautilux (highly recommended), then the relaxing Rethymnon Beach is at your daily disposal. My eight-day trip coincided with the 13th annual Rethymno City Run; I sprinted a 5K race from the city square alongside Rethymnon Beach and back to the Nautilux hotel (in 34 minutes flat, thank you). For sportive globetrotters, a hike up the lushly green Mili Gorge might scratch that nature-lover itch while burning calories; the caves are gorgeous.
Lastly, the museums of Crete offer all the intriguing historical information travelers would want to wrap their heads around, particularly at the Museum of Ancient Eleutherna, the Historical and Folklore Museum of Theriso and the Chania Archaeological Museum. Just remember to pack your worn copy of George G.M. James’s “Stolen Legacy” for the requisite reminder that a lot of Greek philosophy actually has its roots in the mystery schools of North Africa.
A final note: vacationing Black travel groups may want to tour some luxury villas as a last taste of the island, for ideas on lodgings for their inevitable return. Lavish accommodations at Villa Terra Creta or the Amphi Exclusive Residence offer rates that skew towards affordable when divided between parties of 10 to 12 on holiday together. Yamas!
The Greek National Tourism Organization provided complimentary travel and accommodations for the writer of this article.
Miles Marshall Lewis (@MMLunlimited) is an author and Harlem-based cultural critic whose work has appeared in The New York Times Magazine, GQ, Rolling Stone and many other outlets. Lewis is currently finishing a cultural biography of comedian Dave Chappelle, his follow-up to Promise That You Will Sing About Me: The Power and Poetry of Kendrick Lamar.
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