Black, Brazilian and on the brink: Nilton Borges, Jr. is a fine dining chef on the rise at New York City's Amali
theGRIO REPORT - But Borges, 31, has never felt compelled to do the expected. Indeed, Amali’s executive chef, Nilton Borges, Jr., a soft-spoken Afro-Brazilian with an easy laugh, is not what one would expect at all.
Without a professional culinary background, limited English and being the wrong color in the world of haute cuisine, Borges had to start at the bottom and work his way up. “I always had the goal of being a chef,” Borges tells theGrio. “ But I was pretty much on my own and had to start as a dishwasher and go from there.”
A quick study and driven by a need to prove himself, Borges quickly impressed people with his skills and creativity in the kitchen. Still, he always had to deal with his unique cultural background. “I’m not just black, I’m also an immigrant,” says Borges, as he recalled his early years in the kitchen. “It’s the same thing as when people say, ‘Oh, you’re black, you should be making fried chicken.’ With me, it was like, ‘Oh, you’re Brazilian, you should be doing, Brazilian barbecue or the typical feijoada [black bean and pork stew].’
Thankfully, Borges didn’t listen to his small-minded advisors and he followed his passions instead. “I’m proud of being a Brazilian,” Borges declares, “but that was never the kind of cooking I was about. I’m about cooking fresh food, clean flavors and seasonal local cuisine.” And it’s that love of seasonal, local cuisine, coupled with the inspired manner of preparation and presentation that has garnered Amali, under Borges’ command, some impressive awards, including the New and Notable Newcomer nod by Wine & Spirits Magazine and the Diner’s Choice Mediterranean Restaurant, Manhattan, 2012 top honor.
Awards are great, but Borges isn’t even thinking about taking a break. He still wants more. More stars, more recognition for his work and maybe a Best New Chef title. “Every chef wants to be recognized for their work and what they do,” says Borges. “That’s what I want.” He also wants to see more black chefs in fine-dining restaurants. And with that in mind, he encouraged his friend and fellow chef, Martell Fonville, 24, to work at Amali. Today, Fonville, a specialist in Italian cuisine, is number two in command as Amali’s chef du cuisine.
“I’d love to work under Junior as long as possible,” Fonville, a Michigan native, tells theGrio. Borges feels the same way. “I love that we are doing this together,” he says. “This is our opportunity to show the world that two black guys can do this.” If the positive reviews and accolades for Amali are any indication, they are well on their way.
Bon Apétit!
Lori L. Tharps is an author, journalist, college professor and mom. Her book, Hair Story, “contextualizes, demystifies and explains the significance of Black hair in American popular culture,” according to her web site. Follow Lori L. Tharps on Twitter at @LoriTharps.
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