Whew! What a week — New York Fashion Week (NYFW) — and it’s not over yet! As the Spring-Summer ’24 collections continue to make their way down the runways, trends are emerging, and fond memories are being revived.
Take, for instance, the famed “Battle of Versailles” — the epic fashion show staged in Paris in November 1973. Among the faceoff between French and American designers was Stephen Burrows, one of the breakthrough Black designers to earn a spot among the likes of Yves Saint Laurent Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass. Bringing with him top Black models of the day, including Bethann Hardison, Alva Chinn and Pat Cleveland, Burrows blew the Parisian talent out of the water and industry insiders’ minds.
That moment in fashion history was revisited Monday during “NYFW: THE TALKS, Battle of Versailles 50: The Making of Fashion History, Presented by Anne Klein,” yet another label present at the landmark event in 1973. There, Burrows was joined by Cleveland, Chinn, and Parisian fashion industry veteran Nicole Fischelis for a talk moderated by model Jasmine Tookes.
Elsewhere at New York Fashion Week, LaQuan Smith debuted his latest collection; the Actively Black brand made a splash, and several emerging designers enjoyed the benefits of being “Black in Fashion.”
LaQuan Smith builds a modern bombshell
LaQuan Smith‘s unapologetically sexy designs have made him an industry darling for years, but his new collection might be his tipping point. Evoking the vibes of another breakthrough presentation, Tom Ford’s 1995 collection for Gucci, Smith’s latest designs were not only sexy but strong, sophisticated and polished, all while staying true to the self-taught designer’s skin-baring aesthetic.
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
Designer LaQuan Smith appears on the runway during LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
LaQuan Smith – Runway – New York Fashion Week – September 2023
A model walks the runway for LaQuan Smith during New York Fashion Week – September 2023 at Skylight at Essex Crossing on Sept. 11, 2023, in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images)
Law Roach brings his image architecture to Falguni Shane Peacock
Making good on his promise to branch out following his retirement from styling celebrity clients, Law Roach left the front row this Fashion Week to become creative director of Falguni Shane Peacock’s Spring-Summer ’24 presentation. Bringing a streetwear edge to the Indian luxury label, sweatsuit separates and baseball caps were effortlessly mixed with elaborately beading and details, giving us ample inspiration for high-low style.
Angela Bassett makes a NYFW appearance
Whether onscreen or off, Angela Bassett is always a joy to watch, and New York Fashion Week is no exception. Following the Pamella Roland show, the Oscar nominee dropped by the Waldorf Astoria Lounge wearing a sequined pantsuit that hit all the right style notes.
The Black in Fashion Council teases who’s got next
Who’s the next big thing in fashion? We’re rooting for everybody Black — and so is the Black in Fashion Council, which once again partnered with IMG to launch the Black in Fashion Council Showrooms, presented by Rakuten. Tia Adeola, Fumi The Label, footwear designer Téjahn Burnett and more are all displaying their collections this week, hopefully on a path to major runway moments in future seasons.
Are you Actively Black?
Black is fierce; Black is fit. That was the message in activewear brand Actively Black’s NYFW presentation hosted by the fashion platform Runway 7. With well-known faces like Malik Yoba, Affion Crockett and collaborators FUBU gracing the runway and Allen Iverson in the crowd, the brand made its mark on New York Fashion Week — and made us eager to return to the gym.
Maiysha Kai is theGrio’s lifestyle editor, covering all things Black and beautiful. Her work is informed by two decades of experience in fashion and entertainment, great books, and the brilliance of Black culture. She is also the editor-author of Body: Words of Change series.
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